Gourd Art Enthusiasts

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Sometimes I use Pour-on poly resin to finish the inside of my gourds.  I like the glassy thick finish that covers the bottom and any mosaic I have there.  This product is very difficult! If you don't measure exactly 1/2 and1/2 then it ruins the gourd.  Is there an easier to use product that is not so persnickity?

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The resin I use isn't so particulair in measurement as it is in following all the steps, it has to be mixed sereval times in several containers to activate properly. Measurement is important with any resin but, I wonder if it is possibly not following all the mixing steps that might be causing a problem. I use resin frequently inside gourds with out any issues. Maybe try a different brand. There isn't anything as durable or thick that I am aware of.
What brand do you use?
Hi Yvette,
I too use the 2-part epoxy on the TOP of my gourd pins(I have some listed on my member page: Christine Pace), and, yes, it can be tricky and messy AND ruin a good gourd. I find this is more or less a two person job, as the quantity I pour at a time, between 20-30 pins, deems it nescesary for one to keep up with the drips, and another to either breathe on the bubbles or fan with a blow torch - its the CARBON DIOXIDE that disolves the bubbles. When done, as you know, it takes HOURS, and sometimes DAYS to dry, depending on the temperature.
When dry, I use my Dremel to knock off any missed or late-forming drips from the sides and/or backs of my pins. THEN I paint the pin backs, paint on a signature & date, glue on a pin back(I use Royalwood's Insta-Cure glue with accelerator), then use a regular sealer, such as J.W.'s, to seal the backs, at least two times. I've found, accidently, these pins hold up very well in the washing machine! :')
Finally, to answer your question about "fixing" a ruined gourd, ACETONE is the solvent to use. Wear a mask and rubber gloves and be in a well-ventilated area, then try a little at a time on a clean cloth, or, in your case, perhaps you could simply pour a bit inside your gourd and see if it desolves the first resin?
Rinse, repeat if needed. For my pins I sometimes just start over, painting the picture, etc...
One other suggestion is to apply two coats of resign .... the first very thin, as a sealer. LET DRY COMPLETELY then pour on another mixture. Good luck!
Thank you so much. That is great advice, especially the acetone. Where do you get the Royalwood's insta cure glue?
I order Insta-Cure glue from Royalwood Basket Company. You can Google them online.
Actually, I have a friend of mine, Marianne Barnes, who is a basket maker and publisher of a new weaving-on-baskets book, order some for me when she puts in an order for her basket supplies. Otherwise, the postage on just one or two small items is a lot.
A better idea is to go in together with other artist/craftsmen and order in quantities, then split the postage according to wieght or size, and quantity, of your items ordered. Mine is so light it doesn't add any postage to what Marianne is ordering anyway.
If you know any basket makers, or are involved with a gourd group, you may find some who are already doing this and would be happy to add another bottle of glue for you!
And, I get my Acetone from Ace Hardware, but know it is in most hardware stores.
Great! Thanks for the info Kim.
I sell the Insta-Cure glue, as do many hobby shops. It is NOT made by the tool company you mention, they are merely branding it with their label. as I also do. It's a good glue and about the same makeup as glues like hot stuff, super T and gluesmith. They probably all get it from the same places.

I've used Envirotex for resin pours - so far no problems but it is thin enough that it's hard to coat walls with it as it wants to pool in the bottom only.
I use Glazecoat from Lowes to coat my gourds. One thing I do is I made a stand by screwing 1x2 piece of pine about a foot long into a flat base maybe 12x12", then I epoxy a pushpin to the top of the pine. Next I take a piece of newspaper and tear a small hole in it and bring it down over the pine and it makes sort of a skirt.
I pour in my glaze mixture and sloosh it around for a little bit to get everything coated. Then I wait about 20 minutes for the resin to start hardening as it has now started to pool, just like Bonnie said. Here's the trick ,once the resin has thickened a little I turn the gourd upside down and place it over my stick with the pushpin and adjust the gourd till it balances on the pin. What happens now is the resin will run down the sides rather than drip and you will get pretty good distribution and only a couple of drips that can be ground down with a file a roatry tool. Timing is everything but works really good for me.
Thanks Barry, that sounds like a great way to get the glaze on evenly. I'll try the Glazecoat and your set up.


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